DINING IMPOSSIBLE 21 – PIEDMONT
The globetrotting dinner party creates a feast in the mythical white truffle area.
With the finest restaurants that Copenhagen, Barcelona, San Sebastián, Lima, New York City, Chicago and Hong Kong have to offer stamped in our gastro-passports, it’s time to relive the culinary and vinous legacy of Piedmont during the white truffle season.
This November we again offer “the world’s most coveted dinner tickets” to pleasure aficionados, flying in from around the globe – to the heart of the white truffle world. Tartufo Bianco. Amongst friends: The Devil’s Diamond.
3 days – 6 dining venues – 1 great dinner party.
Thursday, Nov 3rd – Friday, Nov 4th – Saturday, Nov 5th.
20 notabilities only.
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THE DEVIL’S DIAMOND
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Myths have flourished since truffles first appeared on the dinner tables of Babylon. In five millennia of fine dining, they’ve been called everything from white diamonds to the Devil’s work to the Empress of the Underworld.
A rose by any other name would never smell as good as this.
So powerful is the truffle’s perfume that the Romans believed the scent heightened erotic sensations. In the Middle Ages, the truffle’s aphrodisiac properties were considered so strong that the potent tubers were deemed demonic and banished from high society.
But the power of these ugly beauties goes well beyond the white tablecloth:
Count Camillo Benso used them to charm his way into strategic alliances. Composer Gioacchino Rossini pronounced them as “the Mozart of mushrooms”. While Lord Byron at all times had one fine example of this almost supernatural ingredient on his desk to stoke his creative fires.
Today, the truffle continues to be one of the world’s most magical and elusive ingredients. Hunters hide their favorite foraging grounds like family secrets. Chefs and restaurateurs have been known to pay up to $1 million for an unblemished beauty.
For anyone who has ever soaked up its heady scent, it’s easy to understand what all the fuss is about.
Nikki Hilton at “World White Truffle of Alba Auction” with a direct satellite transmission to amongst others the Ritz-Cartlon in Tokyo. Profits from the auction goes to cancer research.
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THE MENU
Thursday, November 3th
Chapter 1 – Villa Susti
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Our pivot – Villa Susti – is an adult dream of a bon vivant(e) family to make top wines on the Barbera-variety in their favourite region of the world.
The family bought the retracted ruin in 2008 and throughout four years they renovated this uniquely situated grand villa – with great respect for Piedmontese history, tradition and materials.
The tiny palazzo has seven deluxe double guest rooms with delightful views to the surrounding wine fields, a big kitchen with dining area also used for chefs’ school, a wine cellar with tasting room that also serves as our dining room.
On the first floor we have a charming living room with a grand view over the area, where one during early mornings can experience the special fog of the area – nebbia – the origin of naming the grape variety Nebbiolo that’s used for the world-famous Barolo and Barbaresco.
Outside the villa have terraces with traditional pizza oven, a sizable swimming pool and a jacuzzi from where you can experience the starry sky during nights, not to mention super cars in the garage to be admired as well a range of bikes to experience the hills of the area by.
The villa also has a well equipped fitness room should one feel the need to work off some of the thousands of calories consumed. In all more than charming – with great atmosphere and quality – a unique, private spot created to experience the mythical region of Piedmont.
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After all guests have checked into the grand villa during afternoon – a tasting of Villa Susti’s upcoming winery’s wines are offered along with lighter Piemontese snacks before the 30 minutes ride to our first grand dining destination:
Michelin-accoladed Guido Ristorante in Serralunga d’Alba, close to Barolo, is double dream for Piedmont lovers as it’s situated in a historic estate of one of the area’s oldest and most famous winemakers – Villa Contessa Rosa.
Created in 1858 as a country estate for King Victor Emmanuele II, the property has 100 hectares of vineyards embracing the Estate.
Driving through the gates you enter not just a winery, but a private village, complete with its own church, park, lake and the opulent Villa Contessa Rosa that the king built for his mistress – La Bella Rosina.
In these very elegant and exclusive surroundings, Chef Ugo Alciati, and his brother Piero, oenologist and Maître, offer us a unique experience with the discovery of the finest traditional Piedmontese dishes accompanied by the estate’s fine wines as well as of others – this evening serving the fun-loving dinner party mature Barolos dated back to the 80’s and 90’s, not to mention and extensive feast, worthy of Kings.
All dining rooms have been fully restored, bringing their beautiful terracotta floors and magnificently coloured frescoes back into the light. We’re in trouble.
Dress code: Formel Elegance.
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“The ultimate dinner party” – Forbes Magazine
Friday, November 4th
Chapter 2 – A Family Affair
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After having had a good, variated standard breakfast (press link) at Villa Susti, some might gone for a swim in the pool on location, others for the gym, some again for a hike, or a hot tour into the outside jacuzzi while overlooking the breathtaking landscapes of Tartufo land.
When being restored of Thursday evenings late night feasting, we visit a local legend of truffles so wizardry within his field, that he is the only hunter who knows how to actually cultivate the Empress of the Underworld.
We present you Gidio, also known as Giodo – great Trifole.
He lives a typical house in the hills with vegetable garden, rabbits and chickens. And he serves delicious food at his rustic house with cooking done by the his daughter, assisted by his mother.
But before we put our teeth into this family’s simple yet sublime cooking, we go hunting – for the white diamonds.
This with Giodo and his dogs that are trained so well they can scient truffles more than a meter under ground. In fact these dogs are known so valuable that the Mafia from time to time kidnaps them, demanding hefty ransoms.
(…he sold truffles on the corner, but the Mob wanted in…)
Scientific research discovered what it is about truffles – besides the out of worldly taste – that repeatedly drives us to spend large sums on these potent tubers, being they contain a volatile alcohol that radiates the truffle’s characteristic musk fragrance.
A scent that simultaneously also recalls the fragrances of what boars separates before mating, and why the traditional way of hunting for truffles also involved sows. The hunters prefer however now dogs, as opposed sows the dogs don’t actually eat the precious goodies.
Female pigs simply can’t help themselves. Dogs like them too though.
Another day at the office.
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After the hunt and Piemontese (truffle) lunch in the hills, we bring the golden goodies back our the picturesque villa where our private chef for the night: Gino Minacapilli, a local and beloved, very skilled cook and culinary teacher takes us through the best of Northen Italian cuisine – also inviting those who please to take part in the cooking in the great kitchen of our adopted home.
Gino, doing his thing.
Raviolis with white truffles, secret pestos, local pigs par excellence is to be prepared. In all Gino will stuff the fun-loving dinner party par excellence during a long night’s feast that has an appearance extraordinaire by Conterno Fantino.
Yes, the patron of one of the most esteemed Barolo wineries of all time will not only be dining with us, but also generously serving top royalty within “the wine of kings, the king of wines” at our shared table in the cellars of Villa Susti.
Besides the excellence of Conterno Fantino, then the owner and wine maker of Villa Susti, Danish bon vivant Stig Holmboe, will share the greatest bottles of his winery – leaving no one missing anything.
In all, a family feast.
Dress code: Classy laissez faire (and suitable “hunting” shoes)
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“The world’s best dinner party” – The Telegraph
Saturday, November 5th
Chapter 3 – Grand Finale
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After enjoying yet another lovely morning in the landscapes of Tartufo land, not to mention all the shaved truffles you please for breakfast at Villa Sushi, we enter our final 24 hours together, indulged by the aphrodisiac d’Alba Madonna.
A Danish saying goes, “You must rise by the tree where you fell” and that’s what we’ll do, being transported into the grand rooms and cellars of Contratto – the winery known as the oldest producer of sparkling wine in Italy.
In fact, the “Metodo Classico” 1919 Contratto Extra Brut was the first vintage sparkling wine ever made in the country.
The sparkling wine is the finest of it’s kind in all of “lo Stivale” and indeed we shall consume such during a tour through distinguished wine history.
But another, even greater reason to be this the magnificent palazzo, is yet another royalty within Barolo-wines, La Spinetta, who’s comet-rising, rich, powerful and complex red wines have gone through the roof internationally throughout the past two decades,- and also made the celebrated winery able to purchase the palazzo and production of Contratto in 2011.
Our visit at Contratto ends up in enjoying a marvelous lunch made by La Spinetta winemaker-Giorgio Rivetti’s sister, while Luca Cigliuti takes us on a flight through the grand wines of both Contratto and La Spinetta.
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Slightly tipsy after a great lunch we have some hours at Villa Susti before going out on our 3rd night excursion – to the legendary Alba Truffle Market, where locals and travellers celebrate the final weekend of the season that also marks the absolute peek for the quality of truffles.
The Truffle Market is the place to come to find out everything there is to know about the truffle, immersing yourself in a unique and headily scented atmosphere. Every truffle on sale at the market has been checked by a special commission before the market opens to the public, and this group of experts is also available for consultation inside the pavilions.
The Truffle Market offers visitors the chance to see, touch and smell many, many truffles, sold directly by trustworthy vendors and local truffle hunters.
(…because she’s worth it…)
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After having indulged ourselves in the epicenter of Tartufo Bianco, we’ll enter 3-starred Michelin, world famous restaurant Piazza Duomo, which in the recent years also have made its way up to an impressive ranking as #17 on The World’s 50 Best Restaurants List.
In this gourmet atelier, Chef Enrico Crippa celebrates the Langhe region to the full, while using aesthetics and meticulous techniques that are 100% Japanese.
Together with his brigade Chef Crippa works on lengthy preparations to amaze the most demanding guests with something new.
Well-aware since the outset of the wealth and variety offered by local produce, he has brought his international experience to an area boasting traditions as deep-rooted as those of the Langhe by presenting unusual flavours, while continuing to respect and attach importance to locally-sourced ingredients.
The underlying theme is the use of prime raw materials, carefully selected in keeping with the season and then skilfully turned into works of art in a way that only talented chefs are capable of.
In harmony with the passion for contemporary art that is found in all projects of the wine making Cerrito-family who owns Piazza Duomo, stands the fresco of Neapolitan artist Francesco Clemente: a giant grape leaf, homage to commissioning family, embracing a globe with its five continents, while the grape vine branches out in a series of metaphorical images along the four walls of the room with soft colors inspired by the Langa landscape.
Including the pink room at Piazza Duomo.
On this, the last evening of the Piedmontese three-day gourmet raid, we’ll be indulged by a lengthy tasting menu from Crippa’s hands, accompanied by a special selected wine menu and the world-acclaimed staff of Piazza Duomo.
Dress code: Formal Elegance.
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“Plenty of people throw good dinner parties; few hosts are so successful they take their soirees around the world.”
– The Wall Street Journal
DETAILS
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Dining Impossible 21 – Piedmont is the full experience.
Besides the extraordinaire dinners it also includes accommodation, breakfast, lunch, selected transport and receptions.
All dinners include grand wine menus predetermined with the respectful sommeliers – mineral water, coffee/tea, avecs, various taxes and gratuity.
As always the guest list remains a secret to the public and will only be shared in details amongst the participants. Menus and wines are découverte, meaning presented and discovered on the night of the dinner parties as a part of a full-blown Piedmontese storytelling.
Price per cover is confidential. Please contact Kristian Brask Thomsen at ambassador@bon-vivant.dk for further information.
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“Billed by Forbes Magazine as “the ultimate dinner party” and by Huffington Post as “the world’s most coveted dinner tickets”; Dining Impossible is a three-day gastronomic bender organized by culinary ambassador Kristian Brask Thomsen.”
– Sydney Morning Herald.
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